HISTORY
The Story of Coast Salish Knitting
An Art Form Through Time: Tracing the Evolution of Cowichan Sweaters
Sweater Origins
Native Materials, Timeless Stories: Pre-colonization Weaving
Before colonization, the Coast Salish people, particularly the Cowichan Tribes, utilized the wool of native species like mountain goats and Salish Wooly dogs to weave intricate garments. These practices were deeply ingrained in their culture, serving as platforms for storytelling, personal expression, and preservation of ancestral legends.
Colonization
Adapting Craftsmanship: Colonization's Impact on Sweater Artistry
With colonization, traditional weaving materials dwindled, and sheep wool was introduced. However, the late 19th-century Indian Act restrictions on wearing traditional dress led to the embrace of sweater knitting, which offered a new medium for cultural preservation and economic sustenance for these communities.
Residential Schools
Resilience in Weaving Amidst Systemic Adversities
The introduction of the residential school system in Canada sought to erase Indigenous traditions, including weaving. Yet, despite the systemic adversities, the Indigenous knitters managed to keep their art alive, using their sweaters as symbols of resilience and cultural continuity amid destructive racism and enforced assimilation.
Cultural Appropriation
Battle Against Unethical Imitations of Cowichan Sweaters
The early 20th-century popularity of Cowichan sweaters led to their appropriation. Imitations proliferated, particularly from the 1950s onwards, with the spread of the sweaters to foreign elites, celebrities, and through corporate misuse, like the Hudson’s Bay Company’s imitation during the 2010 Winter Olympics.
The Future
Towards Respectful Recognition of Indigenous Artistry
The Cowichan sweater’s future lies in recognition and respect for its Indigenous origins. Continued cultural appropriation, however, poses challenges for Indigenous communities. Acknowledging past missteps and supporting cultural rights, economic empowerment, and self-determination for the Coast Salish and other Indigenous groups, can help rectify past wrongs and pave a more inclusive future.
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